Evans Cooling Systems Evans High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant
Priced as of May 24, 2026
4.6(955 ratings)Subscribe & Save: $44.68 (5% off)Buy on AmazonSaved to your guest loadout. Sign up to also save to your Cabinet (consumables) or Kit (tools you own).
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Prices may varyThe Podium · Top 3 in Coolant / Antifreeze
See the full ranking →This product ranks #1 of 11 in Coolant / Antifreeze.
- Gold · #1You're hereEvans Cooling SystemsEvans High Performance Waterless Engine CoolantCCT 6.6
- Silver · #2ACDelcoDEX-COOL Extended Life Antifreeze/CoolantCCT 6.6
- Bronze · #3HavolineXtended Life Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-mix 50/50CCT 6.6
CarCareTruth's Analysis
Last reviewed May 26, 2026
TL;DR Waterless EG coolant for performance and track builds — meets ASTM D3306/D8085 with a 375°F boiling point that eliminates boilover. No OEM approvals (its own spec track). Ethylene glycol base — H302 (harmful if swallowed) and Prop 65 warning apply; a bittering agent deters accidental ingestion but does not change the hazard classification.
What it is and how it performs
Evans EC53001 replaces water-based coolant permanently in gasoline, light diesel, LP, and CNG vehicles. Meets ASTM D3306, D8085 (the non-aqueous standard Evans helped develop), and D7583. The 375°F boiling point eliminates boilover and sharply reduces system pressure vs. conventional 50/50 mixes. No named OEM approvals — an aftermarket product on its own spec track. Evans claims a lifetime service interval; no independent VOA data corroborates that. Ethylene glycol base — ingestion hazard in the Safety section.
Who should buy this — and who should skip it
Best for track cars, classic vehicles, or high-performance builds where boilover elimination justifies the per-gallon premium. Evans Prep Fluid (EC42001) is required first — most negative reviews trace to incomplete water removal. Skip for vehicles requiring a named OEM-approved coolant (GM Dexos, Ford WSS-M97B44-D, VW TL 774-G) — Evans carries none.
Safety and environmental impact
Signal word WARNING. H302 (ethylene glycol, harmful if swallowed, Cat 4) is the primary hazard; H361 (reproductive toxin, Cat 2), H373 (STOT RE Cat 2, kidney), and a Prop 65 warning for ethylene glycol (CAS 107-21-1) also apply. Denatonium benzoate (40 ppm) reduces palatability but does not change H302. SDS §8 lists eye and skin protection where splash is possible. Collect spent coolant for recycling — not to the ground.
From the manufacturer
Marketing copy from Evans Cooling Systems, via Amazon. Not editorial.
- •Specifically designed for all modern, classic, and vintage gasoline-powered vehicles, light duty Diesels, LP and CNG vehicles
- •Has a boiling point of 375 DegreeF and will not vaporize, eliminating boilover and after-boil Generates low vapor pressures, prevents coolant loss, and reduces strain on cooling system components
- •Contains no water, effectively eliminating corrosion, liner and water pump cavitation erosion Minimizes the potential for corrosion and electrolysis issues, and reduces maintenance costs
- •Eliminates pre-ignition and engine knock caused by overheating, improving combustion efficiency to deliver more power and improved fuel economy for your vehicle
- •During installation ensure that all of old water-based coolant and water is removed before installing this product
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Manufacturer images
Manufacturer specifications
- Brand
- EVANS
- Item dimensions L x W x H
- 10 x 5 x 12 inches
- Exterior Finish
- Per Item Description
- Vehicle Service Type
- ATV
- Item Weight
- 5 Pounds
- Compatible with Vehicle Type
- ATV
- Fuel Type
- Diesel, Gasoline
- Product Grade
- Performance Part
- Fit Type
- Vehicle Specific
- Automotive Fit Type
- Vehicle Specific Fit
- Item Dimensions
- 10 x 5 x 12 inches
- Capacity
- 128 Fluid Ounces
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Top Amazon review
↗External — Amazon's most-helpful review for context.
Tell me what fluid is designed for the life of your car,,, This stuff is......
I use this coolant in my 2009 Jeep Rubicon 3.8 and my 2006 Dodge SRT8 Magnum 6.1. Both engines run just fine. I have gone 3+ years in the Jeep and only had the Magnum since October of 2016 and both run perfect temperatures.Everyone in the Dodge LX community knows how 6.1 overheat. I do not run a tuner so My fans are stock. I have the original stock radiator and I have no problems overheating. I believe the hottest I see is 209 then the fans come on and I jump RIGHT BACK DOWN to 190-ish.I can drive it 150 miles to see my dad and I can use my bare hand to take the cap off of the radiator. My system is always less than 3 PSI pressure.ANYONE who says it does not work did not perform the conversion correctly. You can't have water in your system. I used Evans prep fluid also.When I did my flush prep and fill I changed out my heater core with a new one, new recovery tank, washed out my RAD and blew it out with air and let it dry out. Changed ALL my hoses and even installed a new water pump. I also did the timing chain so I would not have to tear into the front end ever again. I blew out the engine with air and even jacked up my car on its side and back to make sure all the water is out....I used the provided test strips and I had the best color I could have so I know I was running less than 3% water. I had a gallon of fluid left over so I drained just about a gallon for good measure and added the final gallon.This stuff rocks. NEVER needs replacing. If something does happen to a hose or pump all you have to do is capture fluid from the radiator drain valve and store it in 2 liter soda bottles then put the caps on. I have 10 2liter bottles that I have washed out and have the caps for. What ever happens I will drain the necessary amount of Even into the 2 liter jugs and and fill them up all the way to the cap. Tighten the cap. When I put the fluid back in I will pour it back in using a coffee filter to remove any sediment.I know guys with 800HP HEMIs that run 9's use this stuff. It is good stuff.Things to think about. If you do not use a thermostat you are allowing to much flow. Any antifreeze fluid needs to spend enough time going through the radiator so it can pass flumes so you can have the proper amount of heat exchange. Never cap off your hoses to the heater core. Buy enough hose to loop back into the water pump. Make sure your bottom hose does not collapse when you rev the engine. When this happens you will see the fluid in your recovery tank go low then rise back.Don't jack the reviews because you might have other issues. This is good stuff. Also I called them up and they stayed on the line with me for an hour so I can pick their brain about this stuff. Really nice people. Call them if you are having doubts. I did and I have no cooling issues.